RESIDENTIAL GUIDELINES ACCORDING TO OSHA
INTERNATIONAL
WINDOW CLEANER
CERTIFICATION
INSTITUTE
COURSE STUDY
PROGRAM
For Window Cleaner Safety Certification
Route/Residential Operations
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DISCLAIMER
The International Window Cleaner Certification Institute assumes no liability, and in no event shall the International Window
Cleaner Certification Institute be liable, in whole or in part, for any loss or damage, whether ordinary, special, incidental or
consequential, which may occur or be named as a result of the use or misuse of the information presented in this workbook. The
International Window Cleaner Certification Institute Association does not guarantee the accuracy of the quoted regulations and there
is no representation or warranty of any kind, expressed or implied. You should consult your Local, State and Federal Regulatory
Agencies to insure accuracy. This training program should not be considered as a substitute for, or take precedence over, your
company’s proprietary safety and training programs.
COPYRIGHT
Copyright © 2002- by the International Window Cleaner Certification Institute. Reproduction of these materials in any format is
strictly prohibited without the expressed written consent of the International Window Cleaner Certification Institute.
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Route/Residential Operations
Route Company
A route company is a window cleaning company that concentrates on first or
second floor commercial window cleaning and cleans these accounts on a daily,
weekly or bi-weekly basis. This company’s accounts will be storefronts,
shopping malls, professional buildings, restaurants, automobile dealers, etc.
There are companies that are exclusively route and there are route companies
that also do residential windows cleaning as schedules allow.
Residential Company
A residential company is a window cleaning company that does residential window cleaning exclusively.
There are many such companies in business. A residential window cleaning company will use different
strategies in marketing, scheduling, advertising, hiring and training employees than a route company.
The residential window cleaner will be confronted by a host of different situations and cleaning
challenges. The residential window cleaner must
demonstrate the care and concern for the customer’s
property, in a way that is different from the route
situation.
The tools for the residential window cleaner
are primarily the same as for the route window
cleaner with some exceptions. A start-up residential
company must have a greater selection of tools at the
ready. There are so many different situations in
residential window cleaning that require the tools
necessary to complete the work effectively. The
residential window cleaner needs a broader selection
of squeegee channel sizes. It is probably advisable to
have every size from six to eighteen inches and
acquire sizes in between by cutting channels to the
desired size. Residential windows come in many sizes.
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
· Squeegee
The tool used to remove water and cleaning solution from glass. Its parts are the handle or grip, the
channel that is fastened onto the handle with two machine bolts and nuts through a back plate, and the
squeegee rubber that slides into the channel.
There are several variations of the squeegee handles, the brass or stainless steel
or plastic handles of several types. There are handles that swivel or pivot to allow easier
access to difficult places. There are handles with quick release mechanisms that allow
for the speedy changing of squeegee channels. There are handles that hold the channel
and the squeegee rubber in place by a spring loaded jaw grip back plate.
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There are several variations of squeegee channels: the traditional brass or stainless steel; and thicker,
heavier aluminum channels, as well as thin aluminum channels.
The squeegee rubber is what does the work. The channel holds the rubber, the handle holds the
channel, the window cleaner holds the handle, but the rubber moves the water. There are also several varieties
and qualities of rubber. Every professional squeegee is equipped with replaceable rubbers. Some rubber will
fit only the channel designed for it. The rubber fits inside the channel and is held by end clips in some
channels, or in some channels by a spring-loaded clamp that is part of the lower jaw on the handle.
The window cleaner’s knowledge and skill, and the quality of the tools that are selected for use will
determine the quality of work. Overly worn squeegee rubber will detract from high quality results. Squeegee
handles and channels usually last a long time. But the rubber will wear out. A good rule is to change it
frequently, like daily. Of course, the more windows the rubber cleans the quicker it will wear. Jobs with lots of
glass, like an office building, might require changing rubber several times during each cleaning. The squeegee
rubber can be "turned over," that is removed from the channel when one side of the rubber becomes worn and
turned around to expose the other edge to the glass. Usually the second edge does not last as long as the first.
Another consideration to remember is that rubber is a natural material that disintegrates in heat and
direct light. It is best to store extra squeegee rubbers in a cool, dark place.
Long time window cleaners affectionately call the rubber a "blade."
· Brush
A wooden or plastic block with hog hair bristles fastened to the block with
glue or resin. There are also brushes with synthetic bristles. The brush is used to put
water and cleaning solution on the window. The wooden or plastic block has a hole
or handle, which will receive the tapered end of an extension pole.
· Strip washer
The strip washer is also used to put the cleaning solution on the glass. Its parts are a metal or plastic tbar
(a rod with a handle grip attached) and a cloth fabric cover that slides over the t-bar and is Velcro or snap
fastened. The grip or handle will receive the tapered end of a pole. Strip washers are offered in several lengths,
styles, types of fabric for the cover, with handles that are rigid, and with handles that swivel. Experience will
be the best teacher on choosing the strip washer best for the individual window cleaner.
The greatest efficiency in cleaning windows is probably gained by the method of applying
the cleaning solution onto the glass. The longer strip washers, up to 30 inches, provide a
quick way of doing large plates but are less versatile for all around window cleaning. The
swivel handle strip washers offer great versatility. The most popular length strip washer is
the 18-inch. The type of fabric covering varies from manufacturer to manufacturer but
the utility that is desired is the ability to hold water and the ability to remove grime adhering to the glass.
· Pole or stick
Poles come in many varieties. There are wooden poles and aluminum extension poles of many
different lengths and construction. There are two-section poles, three-section poles and four- and five-section
poles. There are poles that telescope and poles that snap together to form the length desired. Recently
composite extension poles have been introduced to the window cleaner. The leading squeegee companies, as
well as other manufacturers, make poles of several varieties. There are extension poles that twist lock; these
poles have an end-to-end smooth appearance with no collars or locking devises on the surface of the pole.
Locking the pole in place to achieve the desired height is done by turning the pole one half turn. A concentric
device within each section of the pole performs the lock. To loosen, the pole is turned in the opposite
direction. Other poles have tightening devices; screw down collars or a levered concentric that holds the pole
when lengthened. Each type of pole has advantages and disadvantages.
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· Cone adapter
A tapered wooden or plastic piece that fits of the end of an extension pole to receive the strip washer or
the squeegee. Some poles come with a threaded end that the cone adapter screws onto and some poles receive
the cone adapter by a clip on or friction fit method.
Water fed poles
Water fed poles apply water and cleaning solution to the window
through small diameter hoses that run the length of the pole to a brush at the
end from a ground floor water source. The window is wet brushed, rinsed and
allowed to air dry. De-ionized water is often used to improve the quality of
the work done in this way.
· Bucket
The bucket holds the water and cleaning solution, the brush or strip
washer, as well as the squeegees ready to be used. Buckets can be the round
five-gallon, plastic pails, rubber buckets or the rectangular buckets made
especially for window cleaning. There are carts or pods made to hold and
transport buckets easily. If extra water is carried in a five-gallon plastic
bucket, a lid for that bucket might be advantageous.
· Squeegee holster
A leather or nylon fabric device with one or two loops that the squeegee handle slides into. The holster
fits on the belt that holds up the window cleaner’s pants.
· Work belts and pouches and belt buckets
Canvas belts with loops to hold tools. Pouches with pockets for accessories for window cleaning like
detailing cloth, chamois, razor blade holder, pencil, etc., that also fasten to the canvas belt.
The belt bucket is a tubular plastic device that holds the strip washer lengthwise and also has slots for
squeegees to be placed into to avoid dripping. They’re very handy when working inside or on ladders.
· Combination tools
There are tools available that combine the water applicator and the squeegee onto one handle. This
allows for speedy application and removal of water. These tools require a certain expertise but can be useful
in special situations.
· Razor blades and razor blade holder
Single-edged razor blades are used to remove tape, paint, stickers and
other debris routine washing will not remove. The razor blade holder is the tool
that holds a single-edge razor blade. The holder has a retractable blade for
safety reasons. Wet the glass before blading or scraping to minimize the
possibility of scratching the glass.
· Wide blade scraper
Tool made of plastic or metal that receives a wide, four to six inch very
sharp blade. These scrapers are made to be used on a pole as well as hand held. The blades typically have
covers for safety. Again, wet the glass first before "blading" and always "blade" or "scrape" in one direction.
Never pull the wide blade scraper back on the glass for the same reasons as stated above. See "Blading" in
Definitions
· Sponge
Product used to pick up excess water left on windowsill, ledges or on the floor. Sponges can also be
used to apply water to window glass. There are synthetic cellulose sponges and natural sea sponges. The
natural sponge is a wonderful tool but is relatively expensive compared to the cellulose sponge.
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· Chamois
The chamois is a towel created from a tanned leather animal skin. The chamois is used to pick up small
amounts of water left behind by the squeegee on the edges of the glass. The chamois is treated with cod liver
oil to make it soft. The chamois can be used damp or dry. It is essential that the chamois be kept clean to be
the most effective. Some window cleaners swear by the chamois and disdain the "rag." Always wash a new
chamois to remove the oil before using in window cleaning.
· Towels or Rags
Usually made of linen, but cotton cloth does nicely, used for the same purpose as the chamois. These
"rags" can be purchased new. The towels usually are linen surgical towels and highly absorbent. Some
window cleaners use old cotton bed sheets or dishtowels that have been laundered many times. The fabric in
these "rags" has broken down and this makes the cloth highly absorbent, thus a good "shine" cloth. In the old
days window cleaners used a product called "scrim," a highly absorbent linen fabric that looks and feels like a
potato sack. It is still popular in some European countries.
· Soap or solution
There are solutions especially prepared for cleaning windows, too many to name here. Some solutions
are prepared for the brush and squeegee method of window cleaning, some for the chamois and shine method.
Some window cleaners use off-the-shelf household cleaners made for washing dishes. A solution sold for the
squeegee method would be the best to start with. Every janitor supply store or window cleaning supply
distributor will have these products.
· Acids or caustic cleaners
Chemicals or abrasives used to remove stains or mineral build up on window glass. There are many
products for the many different types of stains and mineral deposits. Education and caution is advised. See
Protectants in this section
· Alcohol
Window cleaning in cold climates requires some kind of anti-freeze for the water in the winter
months. The best such product is methyl alcohol, trade name Methanol. Polypropyl can also be used, as well
as isopropyl. Methanol is the most available and least costly, and easiest to use. Be aware of the hazards of
exposure to these kinds of chemicals. The alcohol in windshield washer fluid is methyl alcohol. Always follow
instructions when using any of these chemicals.
· Angle adapters
Device made to put on the end of a pole with squeegee attached to reach over sills and window ledges.
The angle can be changed to what the job demands.
· Ledger
Goose necked squeegee handle that fits on an extension pole to reach over sills and window ledges.
There are several sizes of Ledgers to accommodate different widths of window ledges.
· Window Easel
Tool used in residential window cleaning to support storm windows when cleaning. The easel saves
bending over or working in a crouched position. There is an advantage to bringing the storm window to a
height where it is easier to see the work as it is completed whereby a better quality is achieved. The easels
usually have a trough that collects the excess water created in the cleaning process. These easels are meant to
hold only a couple windows at a time.
· 0000 Steel wool
Steel wool of the finest variety can be used dry in residential window cleaning to remove dirt and
stains from glass. It is best and most efficient when cleaning small panes. Steel wool is also very effective in
detailing small panes when everything is completely dry. Damp or wet steel wool is useless. A disadvantage to
steel wool is that it disintegrates into steel dust and rust.
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· Protectants
Products used to protect window glass from chemical or mineral stains such as alkaline build up, ferric
oxide, aluminum oxide, and concrete efflorescence. Some areas of the country the minerals in water used to
water lawns and plants coat windows with a substance not easily removed in normal cleaning process. Water
run-off from concrete exteriors on buildings can deposit a mineral coating on glass called concrete
efflorescence. Once the stains are removed these protectant products can be useful to protect the glass from
future staining and make the cleaning process much safer and easier. The window cleaner should charge extra
for removing stains from glass. There are several types of protectant products on the market.
DEFINITIONS USED IN WINDOW CLEANING:
· Window
A unit made up of glass set in a frame, which can be wood, metal or vinyl. Windows are placed in
homes or professional buildings for the purpose of letting in natural light and fresh air or in commercial
establishments for showing off merchandise to the potential shopper, or for architectural effects. Windows in
commercial establishments are usually stationary; windows in homes and offices can move up and down,
sideways, crank open or flex open. Windows can be round, square, rectangular or many sided or odd shaped.
The part of the window unit made up of the glass is called a pane or plate and the frame the pane or plate is set
in, is called a sash.
For bidding purposes in residential work, a "window" is defined as everything in a window unit, the
sash, the frame, the sill, the storm, etc.
· Picture window
A large plate set in a frame to allow for broader views of street or landscape. On residences, a picture
window may have an insert storm window attached to the exterior of the window frame. These can be very
difficult to safely remove, clean and replace, especially if a ladder is needed or there are bushes in the way.
· Double hung window
The anatomy of a double hung window is:
1. The frame made up of a header, sill and sides.
2. Sashes; (side rail, top and bottom rail and mullions if the glass is divided into small panes). The double
hung has two sashes, top and bottom, that are supposed to slide by each other, but in older homes the top
sash often gets painted in so it does not operate. Most double hung windows will have a locking device
and a lift handle on the bottom sash and also include weather stripping.
3. Balances are the assists to help move the window sash up or down or hold it in a desired position. On older
windows this is a rope, weights and pulley system. On newer windows the balances can be spring loaded
and include weather stripping.
The double hung window is usually found in residences, single family homes and apartments. Older
homes have double hung windows throughout with storm windows attached. Newer homes have double hung
windows that tilt into the interior of the house or "take outs," windows fitted with removable sash. Tilt-in
windows usually are hinged or pegged at the bottom of the sash and tip in by pulling the top of the sash inward
while pressure is applied to the side of the window frame or the vinyl or metal weather strip. "Take outs" can
be tricky to manipulate. Care must be taken if balances are to be detached when the window is removed. The
sliding or balance mechanism on "tip ins" can offer a challenge if the sash comes out or is dislocated from that
part of the frame. The trick is to keep the sash level when tipped in to clean. Many or most multiple story
apartment dwellings have windows with removable or tip in sashes.
· Gliders or sliders
Windows that have sashes that open and shut in a lateral movement. Sliding glass doors can also be
defined as "sliders." Most gliding window are "take outs." This is accomplished by moving the sash to a
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center position, taking hold of the side rails at the bottom of the sash and lifting up while pulling the bottom of
the sash out. The top weather strip flexes in to allow the removing of the sash. Both sashes come out on this
manner. In apartment buildings or motels sliders will have one sash stationary. This will pose some safety
problems when cleaning. See Safety Section.
· Casement windows
Windows with sashes hinged on one side that open outwardly with a crank or a push rod. If these
windows have screens, the screen is on the inside of the house.
· Awning windows
Windows with sashes that have hinges on the top that open outwardly with a crank or push rod. If these
windows have screens, the screen is on the inside of the house.
· Hopper windows
Windows with sashes that have hinges on the bottom that tip inwardly. If these windows have screens,
the screen is on the outside of the house.
· French windows, or "cutups"
The sashes on double hung windows, top or bottom, or both, divided into smaller panes separated by
wooden mullions. Many window cleaners refer to these kinds of windows as "cutups". Casement windows can
also be divided this way but it is unusual. Many newer homes have plastic or wooden inserts that give a
"French window" appearance.
· Storm windows
Windows applied to house windows for the purpose of keeping out the heat in summer and cold in
winter. There are several types of storm windows;
Combination storms are the storms that are self-storing and move up and down, or sideways, in an
aluminum track. All combinations are designed to be removable and have four parts, two windows (sash,
usually glass set in a metal frame) and one screen and the frame, or tracks, the windows slide in. There are two
dominant styles of combination storms, the two tracks and the three tracks. In the three tracks both the storms
and the screen bypass each other in that each has a separate track. In the two tracks the front or inside storm
can be moved up and down, the rear or upper storm is fixed because the screen fits under it. On the three
tracks, the screen is inside the storms, on the two tracks the screen is outside one of the storms and under the
other. In either case these storms slide out of the frames from the inside of the house for the purpose of
cleaning. A word of caution here, the frames of these windows are secured to the glass by glue and a piece of
plastic or rubber caulking and can easily be pulled away from the glass if not handled carefully. If this happens
it can make replacing the window into its proper frame difficult. Handle the windows by applying pressure
with the hands at the sides on the frames.
On older homes a window cleaner might encounter some unusual metal storm windows. There are
more types than can be explained in this publication; just remember all of these windows were meant to be
removable. Sometimes it takes some head scratching to figure it out.
· It is also important to note that all combination windows are manufactured in units. The sash and the
frame, or tracks, are a unit. Do not intermix sashes and frames. The sash that comes out of a certain frame
must go back into that same, certain frame.
Be reminded that the screen in aluminum combination windows also needs to be cleaned. Refer to the
Technique Section for different ways of screen cleaning. When writing bids for cleaning combination
windows consider the time needed to clean the tracks and bid the track cleaning separately then ask if the
homeowner wants that service also. Cleaning tracks thoroughly is a time consuming task, charge accordingly.
Wooden storms and screens are applied to the outside of the house window much the same as the
combination. These storms are best removed from the outside of the house. Second story removal can be
challenging and dangerous. For safety reasons, it is a good idea to have assistance when working second story
homes with wooden storms. Most of the time, wooden storm windows have companion screens that fit in the
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opening after the wooden storm is removed. This requires the window cleaner or a helper to store the windows
in a basement or a garage.
Aluminum storm inserts are applied to casement, awning and hopper type windows, In some cases
these can be on the outside of the window. In most cases, especially newer homes these inserts are on the
interior. Metal or plastic clips hold the storm inserts. Removal and cleaning storm inserts can be as time
consuming as combinations. Care should be taken when cleaning this type of storm as the very thin metal
frames can come apart when handling especially those applied to the exterior of the house window. These
windows also have a tendency for moisture to condense in between the window sash proper and the storm
insert after removal, cleaning and replacement if soap, water, and squeegee cleaning method are used. The
windows fog up as a result. Allowing drying time before replacing the storm insert minimizes this effect. The
inserts applied to the exterior of casement or hopper windows tend to be flimsy or fragile. Caution is advised.
There are manufacturers of casement windows that put mini blinds in between window and the storm
insert. These windows can be difficult to clean taking two to three times longer to clean than regular
casements with storm inserts.
· Glass
Glass is the product used in modern windows. There is not sufficient space in this publication for the
entire science of glass to be covered. However, this subject is of the utmost importance to all window
cleaners! Many window cleaners have had to pay for glass damaged in the post construction cleanup
process and have left the industry of window cleaning as a result.
Modern glass comes in several varieties and degrees of surface qualities. Sheets of plate glass or flat
glass are created from molten glass. The molten glass is floated onto a molten tin bath, where the molten glass
ribbon is drawn through the tin bath on rollers, then through an annealing lehr where it cools. All float glass is
of the same hardness, as is all annealed and tempered glass. The basic types of glass are annealed, tempered,
and laminated. All glass is annealed. Annealed glass is tempered to increase its strength so it can withstand a
greater impact before breaking. This glass is then called tempered glass. Most modern storefront window glass
is tempered.
Laminated glass is two or more sheets of glass with a very thin layer of plastic between sheets.
Laminated glass is used in and around entrances and exits for safety purposes. This glass can be tempered or
annealed.
Tinted glass can be annealed or tempered. In most cases tinted glass is tinted throughout. The color,
usually iron oxide, is added in the float tank. In some cases the tint is applied to the surface of the glass
thereby creating a different quality of surface. Low E or energy efficient insulated glass is designed to have
this tinted coating on the inner surface of the unit. Due to quality control problems at the glass manufacturer,
the tinted surface is sometimes on the outside of the glass unit. The unsuspecting window cleaner can severely
damage this glass in the cleaning process. All tinted glass demands a more cautious approach when cleaning,
especially during a post construction cleanup. This process requires a more aggressive method in removing,
mortar, concrete, paint, paper, plaster, etc., from the glass. The glass can be damaged in that process if proper
precaution is not taken. The window cleaner must identify if it is tinted glass, or tinted film, or a tinted
coating before cleaning.
Some tinted glass, usually the gold, blue or green, may have a very thin metallic coating on the outside
of the glass. This glass has a method for cleaning recommended by the manufacturer of the glass. This coated
glass is very susceptible to scratching or etching if cleaned improperly.
The many different manufacturers of glass have different quality standards. Any routine cleaning of
glass poses the unlikely occurrence for damage to glass surfaces. Problems can occur during post construction
cleanup when razor blade scrapers or stain removing acids are used. Metal scrapers used inappropriately can
cause glass surfaces to be scratched. Acids can cause etching on the surface of tempered glass. Always test in
an inconspicuous corner.
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All of the types of glass previously mentioned are also used in residential construction. Here single
strength and double strength is a factor. Most combination storm window glass is single strength. As
previously stated the routine cleaning of this glass poses little problems for possibility of damage to glass
surfaces. A wise window cleaner will educate him or herself on the differing qualities of glass. The type of
glass and the manufacturer of the glass is usually identified by a seal or stamp in one of the corners of the
piece of glass.
· Important information
Within the glass industry a lack of quality control allows some tempered glass that may have been
manufactured improperly to come to the market place. The glass surface is not "cleaned" properly at the
manufacturer and glass dust (fine particles or "fines") are embedded in the surface of the glass This is not
visible to the eye but can be discerned to the touch. It "tinkles" or makes a "sandpaper sound" when scraped.
These "fines" will act as an abrasive and fine scratches will result if scraped with any kind of scraper or with
any method of scraping. This is another reason to always test in an inconspicuous corner. While this is not
common, it happens frequently enough to be a problem to window cleaners and glass installers. If you
encounter this condition, bring it to the attention of the owner or person in charge. This glass can be cleaned
but should not be "bladed" or "scraped" and the window cleaner should not be responsible for it if it is
damaged.
The routine cleaning of any type of glass poses little problems in regard to damaging the surface. Sometimes
cleaning necessitates the use of abrasives, chemicals or razorblade scrapers requiring greater care, concern and
caution.
· Plate
Term used to describe a single commercial window. As in "There are 5 plates in that store front."
Commercial window cleaners usually charge by the "plate." Most residential window cleaners charge by the
"window."
· Window Cleaning
Term used to describe activity of removing dirt from window glass. Activity also pertains to cleaning
frames around windows. The term is the same as "window washing;" it only sounds zippier. The writer of this
material "washes" dishes, but "cleans" windows. The term used is of little consequence provided the window
is cleaned or washed well.
· Brushing or wetting
The term used to describe the action of putting water on or scrubbing the window glass.
· Rubber
The squeegee rubber as defined in the "Tools" section. Rubber comes in different lengths and types.
· Notching
Cutting a very small part of the corners off a squeegee rubber. This makes it track better on the edges
of window glass set with rubber caulking strips. This is proposed to reduce detailing. Notching is especially
helpful when cleaning aluminum combination storm windows. Not every window cleaner "notches".
· Squeegeeing
The term used to describe the action of removing the water from the glass with the tool called the
squeegee.
· Fanning or snaking
The terms used to describe the serpentine movement many window cleaners employ when removing
the water from the glass with a squeegee. See Techniques
· Cutting
The term used to describe the action of pulling water away from the tops or sides of the window. This
is done by tilting the squeegee at an acute angle to the horizontal at the top, or the vertical at the side with one
end of the squeegee in contact with the glass at the window frame. The squeegee is the moved back and forth
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across the top of the window to pull the water away from the frame. Then poling the window can be done with
less chance of leaving water at the top to run down or "tear." This motion can be done on the side of windows
when squeegeeing straight across the window and not fanning.
Cutting is also a technique used when cleaning French windows as it can greatly reduce the need for
detailing.
· Poling
The defining term for the use of the pole and squeegee together to remove the water and cleaning
solution. This is usually done in a straight down motion starting from one end of the window and progressing
to the other. On large plates it is best to pole down to about eye level for greatest efficiency, then finish
squeegeeing the plate by hand. The expert window cleaner will develop the skill of cutting and fanning a
plate while using the squeegee and pole to a place where the squeegee can be removed from the pole with no
interruption of motion and the squeegeeing completed by hand. It is the most efficient technique when poling.
· Runnies, or tears, as in crying
Undesirable water left behind by the squeegee at the top of a window when poling. This water will run
down and leave ugly reminders or hack marks when dry.
· Breakaways
Undesirable water left behind by the squeegee at the edge of the window. This water will break away
from the edge and run across the window leaving a hack mark when dry. This occurs more readily on
windows with the glass set in tube caulk or rubber caulking. Beads of water hang up on the caulking, run
down the sides of the window and can break across the glass at some point in their journey. "Detailing" these
windows is usually necessary to avoid breakaways.
· Detailing
Using a chamois or cloth to remove "runnies," "tears," "hack marks," "breakaways" or any water left
behind that collects around stickers on doors, painted signs on window glass, etc. Detailing is an essential part
of the complete job in quality route/residential window cleaning. Proficiency with the squeegee can reduce the
time spent "detailing."
· Scraping or Blading
Removing tape, paint, and other stubborn debris like bug residue, which wetting or brushing does not
remove. This is done with a razor blade or a wide blade scraper. Same as "scraping" only "blading" sounds
less abusive. Care should be taken to avoid damaging the glass when "blading" or "scraping." "Blading"
should only be done on wetted glass. It is best to blade in one direction. Small particles of sand or grit can
become caught on the bottom side of the blade causing fine scratches on the glass if the blade is pulled
backwards while on the glass. By "blading" in only the forward motion, lifting the blade off the glass with
each repetitive motion so that the grit is left behind, the possibility of damaging the glass is greatly reduced.
There are window cleaning horror stories of damage to glass from improper "blading" or wrong use of
cleaning materials. The horror of these stories usually involves a window cleaner paying for damaged glass.
See "Glass" and "PCU’s" in this section.
· Post Construction Cleanups
This term that defines the activity of cleaning windows after construction. This activity usually
involves lots of "blading." This is the activity where the window cleaner’s knowledge of glass can be helpful.
If done improperly, construction cleanups can be destructive to glass surfaces. It is always best to get the
window manufacturer’s recommendations for cleaning. While most glass manufacturers recommend cleaning
the glass upon installation and then protecting the glass from the hazards of the construction process, some
types of glass have a specific method of cleaning. However, certain types of tinted glass carry specific
methods of cleaning. Some window cleaners use only a brush to apply the cleaning solution to the window in
the post construction cleanup process. Always apply a cleaning solution to the window before beginning work
on removal of debris.
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Test in a small area in a corner of the glass before "scraping" or using abrasives or caustics. Consult
the experts for know how and always consult the installers of the glass for cleaning specifications if you are
unsure. Construction cleanups take three to four times longer in time than routine window cleaning.
Window cleaners should know that insurance companies won’t cover or pay for scratched glass
because they believe that window cleaners are in control and should have taken appropriate precautions.
· Sponge, chamois and shine
A technique used to clean smaller windows like storms or French panes. The water is applied to the
glass in modest amounts, removed with chamois, and then the glass is shined with the cloth, or towel. While
this technique is not used widely, it is good to know how to do it. It can come in handy in some places.
· Soap
The chemical product used in the water to act as a wetting or cleaning agent to accommodate cleaning.
Most such products are more accurately defined as detergents but the term "soap" persists. There are chemical
solutions specifically prepared for cleaning windows. Their use is highly recommended mainly because glass
is transparent and any solutions or chemicals need to consider that.
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Duties Of The Window Cleaning Contractor
-To provide window cleaning and safety equipment which meets all regulatory standards and is regularly
inspected and maintained in safe working condition.
-To insure that all services are performed according to Federal, State and Local Regulations including labor
laws.
-To maintain a valid Safety Program. This should include documented training, re-training and any related
information.
-To prohibit all window-cleaning operations when adverse conditions may affect the safety of the worker,
workers or the public. (i.e. inclement weather, unsafe building, etc.)
-To uphold the Code of Ethics of the International Window Cleaning Association (IWCA)
-To provide any person or person’s contracting their services, with proof of the following;
a) Adequate liability and workmen’s compensation insurance in accordance with Federal, State or
Local regulations.
b) Compliance with Federal, State or Local licensing and/or registration requirements.
c) That all subcontractors used maintain a legal business and are adequately insured.
Duties Of The Employee
-To follow all guidelines set forth by the employer.
-To become proficient in the use of all window cleaning and safety equipment which they are expected to
operate.
-To attend all Safety and Training programs offered by the Employer
-To use all equipment for its intended purpose only and to report any damaged or worn equipment
immediately
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Supervising Safety
The basic responsibility for ensuring occupational safety and health on the job belongs to the
supervisor. To accomplish this, the supervisor must first understand the factors that influence accidents.
Environment
The physical layout of the work area should be designed in a manner that ensures employees’ safety.
Job procedures and tasks should be specified with safety in mind to prevent employee injury. The work
process must be orderly without undue obstacles.
Equipment
The right tools must be matched to the task at hand. In addition, tools and equipment must be well
maintained and periodically inspected. Consider the relationship of the worker and their equipment.
Employees
Employees must be trained how to do their jobs properly. They should be assigned to tasks that they
are capable of performing. The environment and equipment can be relatively easy to identify and correct,
when necessary. It is the people factor that is most difficult.
Why do people take safety risks ?
Generally, people take safety risks to save time and effort. They do this because in the past, accidents
have not occurred when taking that risk. As a result, the unsafe behavior was "rewarded".
Why is it important not to take risks ?
If you take risks enough times, eventually you may become seriously injured. The laws of probability
make it inevitable.
For every lost time accident, there is an even larger number of
accidents which require first aid or medical treatment. All of these
accidents, despite their consequences, are a result of an even greater
number of unsafe acts. The higher the number of unsafe acts, the
greater the likelihood of accidents requiring medical treatment and the
greater the chances of lost time accidents.
By simply reducing the number of unsafe acts, the number of
accidents throughout the workplace can be reduced.
In order to reduce unsafe acts, it is important to focus attention on employee behaviors and not on
employee attitudes.
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Attitudes and Behavior
What is the difference between attitudes and behaviors ?
Attitudes, like feelings, occur internally. Behaviors, however, are observable actions.
Supervisors should focus on behaviors because they can be seen and, therefore, are easier to change.
Attitudes are more difficult to identify and, therefore, are more difficult to change.
Traditionally, many safety programs have tried to change attitudes through slogans, poster, or incentive
programs. This is difficult because we can only guess what a person’s attitude is, since it can not be seen.
In time, as people become accustomed to behaving in a certain way, their attitudes will tend to change.
Behavior Modification
The techniques a supervisor can use to modify behavior of workers involves modeling, reward, and
correction.
Modeling
Modeling simply refers to any means by which you demonstrate the proper technique to do a job.
Modeling occurs when people behave in a way that other people can imitate. The supervisor should set a good
example.
Supervisors day-to-day actions are observed by the employees they work with and it is from those
actions that employees should learn to work safely. However, when they see you by pass a known safety
procedure, you have sent a mixed message. You said one thing, but did another. In this instance, two wrongs
do not make a right.
Rewarding
Rewarding a desired behavior will make it occur more frequently. Rewarding employees for
performing a task correctly is the best method to use to improve safety. Tell them when they do a good job,
which includes not only the completion of the task, but the safe performance of it as well.
Correction
Follow these steps to correct unsafe behavior
• Identify the unsafe act or condition you see.
• Inform the employee of the correct method you want used.
• Check to be sure that the employee understands the
required change in behavior.
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• Emphasize the importance of the employee’s safety to you and the company.
Attitudes versus Behavior
Attitudes are internal and difficult to assess. Behavior is an observable action. Remember, unsafe
behavior does not just happen. As a supervisor, you make the difference between a safe workplace and one
that is unsafe. You influence the behavior of those people under your direction. And through your influence
you can in fact, manage their behavior. A constant management of behavior will eventually affect an attitude.
Think Safety by Planning Ahead
Risk and hazard in window cleaning is usually associated with the high rise industry. However,
statistics bear out that more accidents occur with ladders than any other piece of window cleaning equipment.
Accidents with ladders usually are devastating, many times resulting in loss of life or permanent injury. These
accidents are always attributable to the misuse of the ladder or poor judgment by the person involved in the
accident.
While misuse of ladders is a source of accidents, window cleaners have also been injured falling over
their own bucket or slipping in water they left on the floor or by getting tangled up with their pole resulting in
a fall. Residential and route window cleaners have lost their lives because they did not fully understand the
physics of high voltage electricity and the arc distance of electricity.
Customers of window cleaner clients have slipped on water or stumbled over unattended equipment or
have been hit by the end of a window cleaning pole. When cleaning windows on busy sidewalks, inattentive
window cleaners have caused injury to pedestrians. The landscape of window cleaning is cluttered with cases
of accidents stemming from a disregard for the window cleaner’s personal safety and a disregard for the safety
of others in that landscape.
There are also as many stories about window cleaners damaging property of others as there are
window cleaners. Mistakes happen, windows are broken or flawed, merchandise soiled or spoiled, house
siding dented or marred, unattended ladders or extension poles blowing over in the wind onto automobiles or
into neighboring windows. The reasons for practicing safety then, are twofold, to protect the window cleaner
and employees from pain and suffering and the anguish of lost time and money, as well as protecting the
property and customers of the clients the window cleaner serves.
There is no such thing as an unavoidable accident. The most important element in making those
accidents avoidable is attitude. The window cleaner must develop a total safety consciousness. Total time lost
because of taking chances that result in death or injury far overshadows the time gained from taking those
chances. No hard working, success driven window cleaner will start out their day with this thought in mind,
"Well, I guess I’ll go injure myself today!" or "I wonder what I can do today to cause pain and suffering to my
employees?" or "What careless act can I do today to cause my best customer to be sued in a court of law?" Of
course not! But by not thinking safety and planning for safety, the result might be the same.
When we take chances we need to consider how many people we are putting at risk, our self, our
family, our clients, their customers and sometimes pedestrians. One might conclude that life is full of risks,
which may be true, but may we also conclude it is the management of risks that leads to a safety
consciousness? Safety education can help us better understand the full consequences of our actions. The
IWCA strongly recommends safety training for all aspects of window cleaning. The first rule of safety is
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simple: "Do not take chances with your life and the life of others!" The second rule is to use education and
training so unsafe practices can be recognized and avoided.
The basic responsibility for ensuring occupational safety and health on the job belongs to the
supervisor. To accomplish this, the supervisor must first understand the factors that influence accidents as
explained in the Supervising Safety section.
Access Equipment
The ladder is an essential tool for the route and residential company. See the Ladder Safety section of
this publication. This section is required reading for anyone interested in starting a window cleaning business.
There are more fatal and serious-injury accidents involving ladders than any other piece of window cleaning
equipment. Choose your ladder carefully and learn about the proper, safe use of that ladder. A good rule of
initial safety is buying the best, strongest ladder.
Extension Ladders
Extension ladders are popular provided that a high-quality ladder is selected.
Probably the ladders sold at the discount stores will not withstand the rigor of
everyday use. A good ladder is an insurance policy towards an extra degree
of safety. The extra money paid for a high-quality extension ladder spread
over many years of use becomes insignificant but the extra measure of safety
a high-quality ladder provides is not insignificant. Builder’s ladders, also
called progressive sectionals, or stack ladders, all of which are commonly
referred to as "window cleaner ladders," are very popular among experienced
window cleaners. These ladders come in six-foot sections that slip together to
achieve the height desired. Each set of ladders has a top section, a bottom
section, and two or three middle sections. Extra middle sections of different
lengths can be purchased. Sectional ladders cost more that extension ladders
of the same length but this ladder is extremely versatile, easier to handle and
transport than extension ladders.
Stepladders
Stepladders or portable work platforms are critical to the residential window cleaner. Caution on the side of
safety is asked again. Be aware that the stepladder is the most dangerous tool in any household. Pick a
stepladder for strength and stability and be educated in the safe use of that ladder. It is a good idea to have
several sizes of these ladders.
Other Equipment
Truck or van: Because of the extra equipment like ladders, step ladders, long poles, etc., the residential
window cleaner might want to start their business with a small pickup or an enclosed van. It is probably a
good idea to get signs identifying the company for the sides of these vehicles.
Drop cloths and throw rugs also make up necessary equipment additions. It is essential when offering a
quality service to protect the homeowner’s property. It is an unhappy occasion when, because of carelessness,
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a window cleaner might have to pay for the cleaning or replacement of carpeting or furniture. Painter’s drop
cloths, the fabric kind usually made of lightweight cotton canvas, work nicely. Some builder supply stores
have rather large, lightweight doormats. These mats are rubber backed and have highly absorbent fabric on the
topside. These can be rolled up, fastened in the roll by a bungee cord and easily transported. These mats work
out well to protect floors when cleaning windows on the inside and can be easily moved from window to
window. These mats can also be hung up in the car wash and power washed when necessary. One can conduct
an experiment to do to determine how much dripping there is from your equipment. Put down some brown
paper or colored bed sheets that show water easily on the floor in a controlled situation, such as your own
home. Now clean some windows and try to be as careful as you can possibly be and see how much you still
drip. Drop cloths are essential!
SAFETY GUIDELINES
Basic Safety for Window Cleaners
1. Window cleaning shall be prohibited when the window cleaner’s work area is exposed to excessive
winds. Excessive winds are considered to be any wind, which constitutes a hazard to the worker, public or
property.
2. Fall protection, perimeter guarding, personal fall arrest systems or a personal fall restraint system (as
applicable) shall be provided for all work areas (with the exception of working from a ladder supported at
grade or using a window cleaner’s belt and window cleaner’s belt anchors) that expose a worker to a fall
hazard when approaching within 6 feet (1800 mm) of an unguarded edge or unguarded skylight. The means
or methods used shall comply with industry standards.
3. When equipment used to access windows is suspended over or
erected near an area traversed by workers, the public or vehicular
traffic, warning signs shall be positioned below and the ground area
directly under or adjacent to the work zone shall be effectively
blocked by means of barricades. A competent person shall determine
if additional means of protection are necessary.
4. Unprotected, energized electrical lines or equipment shall not
be contacted with tools or equipment. A minimum safe distance is no
less than 10 feet (3 m). If unsure, the power company should be consulted.
Specific Guidelines
1. Reaching out to clean a window may be done only if the following criteria are met;
a) the window can be safely accessed;
b) all the glass surfaces can be cleaned with only one arm (the part of the body below the worker’s shoulder)
of the window cleaner extended beyond the outermost glass plane when his or her feet are firmly on the floor
or safe working surface without the use of a ladder or other access device;
c) the height of the sill prevents the worker from falling through the opening;
d) the window and all its appurtenances are sound and in proper working order;
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e) the worker is protected from falling through the opening, in a manner that complies with industry
standards.
2. Workers should not place any body weight on the window or window frame while reaching out to
clean.
3. Workers should not walk or place body weight on any overhead
glass in a skylight or atrium. Walking on the framework is acceptable if it
has been designed for such loading. Proper personal fall protection shall be
engaged along with appropriate danger signs and barricades.
4. If the cleaning process produces excess water it is the workers
responsibility to remove it immediately and place appropriate danger signs.
5. When performing window cleaning on or around a public entranceway, extreme care shall be taken.
Proper danger signs should be in place.
6. When working on the inside of a building the worker should store their bucket and all tools out of the
way of public traffic.
7. When using extension devices of any kind extreme care should be taken while working around
electrical lines or devices. Unprotected, energized electrical lines or equipment shall not be contacted with
tools or equipment. A minimum safe distance is no less than 10 feet. If unsure, the power company should be
consulted. Proper danger signs should be in place if the extension devices are longer than 20 feet. When an
extension pole or device is used while working on or from ladders, platforms or suspended access equipment
near areas traversed by the general public, tools, attachments and the pole itself shall be secured to prevent
them from falling.
8. Window cleaning should not be performed on any exterior window sill or working surface without
either proper fall protection or personal fall protection.
9. Any areas of a job site which have been labeled as dangerous by the building owner or manager should
be avoided until access has been determined as safe.
10. Any window cleaning company, which also provides pesticide control, shall do so according to
Federal, State and Local regulations.
11. When chemicals are used for window cleaning it shall be the employers’ responsibility to establish a
written hazard communication program complying with OSHA 29 CFR 1910.1200, and to adequately train
and provide all information to employees that will be working with the chemicals. Hazardous or corrosive
materials shall not be used in the course of window cleaning when they may endanger the health and safety of
the worker or may affect the safe operation of the equipment.
When hazardous or corrosive materials will be utilized in the course of window cleaning, the employer will
consult with qualified persons regarding the chemical agent’s compatibility with the window cleaning
apparatus and safety systems. To determine compatibility, laboratory testing may be required.
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Employees that will be subjected to working with hazardous or corrosive chemicals shall use personal
protective equipment in accordance with the chemical’s "Material Safety Data Sheet" (MSDS) and in
compliance with OSHA 29 CFR 1910.134 through 1910.136.
EQUIPMENT THAT SHALL NOT BE USED FOR WINDOW CLEANING
1. Portable Sills.
2. Window Jacks
General Safety Do’s and Don’ts
· Be committed to safety education for yourself and for employees.
· Always work with your bucket between you and the window, preferably up close against the building.
· Never place your bucket in the pedestrian walkway, in front of a door or the middle of the sidewalk. The
customers of the client are more important to that client than the window cleaner. Blocking entrances
while working will be frowned on and can cause safety problems.
· If a pole must be left unattended lay it down against the building behind the bucket. Round things like
poles roll and can cause horrible injuries when stepped on by the window cleaner or a passerby. Poles
leaned up against the building can blow over in the wind or can be stepped through by a pedestrian not
watching where they are going.
· When using long extension poles, firmly affix tools to the pole.
· When cleaning in heavy pedestrian traffic areas display, "caution" signs.
· If work must be done on pedestrian busy sidewalks, choose the shortest pole possible for the work to be
done; all of the pole should be between the window cleaner and the window; squeegee down to eye level
with the pole and hand squeegee the rest. Long extension pole work should be done during off peak traffic
times.
· Be aware and beware of electric lines overhead when using long extension poles. Learn about the arcing
ability of electricity. Most electric lines in urban areas are shielded but never assume this. Find out!
Contact with high voltage electricity is instant death! The arc distance of high voltage is up to ten feet!
· When cleaning windows on a sloping sidewalk hillside, work from the low side to the high side. This will
reduce the chance of falling.
· Clean up excess water on floors for the safety of the window cleaner as well as others.
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· Caution! A long squeegee in a squeegee holster is a sweeper of items off tables in restaurants, off desks in
offices, produce in grocery stores. It can catch in doors, in peoples clothing, in shopping carts, etc.
· Neon signs are high voltage devices. Turn off electricity at the source, not on the sign.
· Learn about what chemicals can be safely mixed. Read MSD sheets provided by manufacturers of cleaning
chemicals. These sheets should be posted in your office and copies carried in all vehicles, as OSHA
requires this information to be posted at all job work sites. If you have employees make sure they are made
aware of the MSDS information. Ammonia and certain detergents are incompatible. Know the health
hazards and side affects of alcohol used in cold weather window cleaning.
· If ladders are used, attend a ladder safety course. Do not assume existing knowledge is sufficient.
Applying knowledge of side loading and stress point dynamics can prevent serious accidents. See Ladder
Safety Section
· Make sure all equipment is in good serviceable condition.
· Practice, teach and demand safe driving!
· Learn and think safety
· Reward employees for safe work habits.
· Carry adequate insurance to protect company, customers and employees.
CHEMICAL USE
Hazard Communication
This section deals with some of the danger involved in the window cleaning industry. Primarily, one can
envision that most of the danger lies within falls from elevations. This is typical, however, in this day and age
and new concern is abound in just about every industry as well as ours.
This concern is the use of chemicals in the workplace and regulations have come about recently that will keep
this concern to a minimum.
Before chemicals are introduced into the workplace, special considerations must be made, such as: training,
handling, storage, transportation, health hazards and emergency measures. The use of chemicals in any work
place is one of the hottest global topics today, and the following information will assist you in meeting
compliance with the current regulations.